Halloween Country: Tarrytown and Sleepy Hollow, New York

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If there's one quintessential American ghost story, a good case could be made for Washington Irving's "The Legend of Sleepy Hollow." Never mind how the original Headless Horseman story has morphed over the years from cute and spooky into occult and gory—as in Fox's series Sleepy Hollow. The story is as integral as any to Halloween, so there's no better place to celebrate the holiday than Sleepy Hollow and Tarrytown, New York, the towns where the legend takes place.

A quick train ride brings visitors twenty-five miles outside of New York City, where this bustling suburban grid sits on the banks of the wide, blue Tappan Zee. Come autumn, the area's historic estates don their Devil's Night best and put on countless Halloween celebrations for every taste.
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Any visit to Tarrytown and Sleepy Hollow should start with a trip to see Washington Irving's quaint, ivy-choked cottage called Sunnyside—after all, he's the guy who started it all. Keep your eyes peeled and you just might see his ghost peering through a dark window, possibly pining for his lost love.



From there head to nearby Lyndhurst, the estate of nineteenth-century railroad baron Jay Gould. Lyndhurst has been the setting for many a spooky movie and TV show, including House of Dark Shadows, a staple for fans of vampire horror. Even if you're not into this year's seaonal offering, "Jay Ghoul's House of Curiosities: Lyndhurst, The Disenchanted Castle," the estate's architecture alone is worth the price of admission, as the mansion is regarded as one of the best examples of Gothic Revival in the U.S. Notably, the estate is really the only venue in the area that offers daytime Halloween tours, which are a bit less spooky than the nighttime offerings.



If you've only got a couple hours to kill, no Halloween adventure into Headless Horseman country would be complete without a visit to the Old Dutch Church and the adjoining Sleepy Hollow Cemetery. There, the Headless Horseman rose from Washington Irving's imagination and famously chased Ichabod Crane through the haunted glen. There are tours for every interest—from nighttime lantern tours that conjure real-life stories of murder and madness to daytime perambulations that focus on Irving and the Sleepy Hollow legend. While you're there, try to attend an event inside the Old Dutch Church. Built in the late seventeenth century, the quaint interior offers no electricity or heat, just candles and a stove—perfect for master storyteller Jonathan Kruk's colorful rendition of "The Legend of Sleepy Hollow."

With so much to do, you'll have to keep your energy up. The good news is there are lots of places to eat and drink. For a local haunt, hop on line for a gyro at Lefteris on Broadway. If beer is your thing, you'll love the huge selection and polished wood bar at The Bridgeview Tavern.



For a luxurious dinner you'll never forget, head just outside Sleepy Hollow to Blue Hill at Stone Barns, an elegant farm-to-table restaurant set in the heart of an environmentally progressive, working farm. There, massive stone structures inspired by Normandy folk architecture will win you over even before you sit down to eat. You can also take advantage of the fabulous Blue Hill Caféduring the day. But don't expect a table: just stake a claim on a picnic bench and chat up some locals. If you time it right, the sky will be blue, the October air sweet and crisp—and you'll eat your gourmet lunch out of a brown paper box, surrounded by the fields where your kale and squash were growing not too long ago.



Finally, if you've spent a fair amount of your time in weatherworn graveyards or at haunted houses like The Horseman's Hollow at Philipsburg Manor, you might need a moment to reflect. In that case, go seek a moment of solitude at one of my favorite but perhaps less visited spots in the area: Union Church of Pocantico Hills. For a few bucks, you can sit in one of the pews, ponder infinity, and gaze on a poignant collection of stained glass windows by Marc Chagall—not to mention Henri Matisse's very last work of art.

Or, just hunt down some more Halloween—because there's lots more to be had. Go get shivers up your spine gazing on the 5,000+ art-carved pumpkins at The Great Jack O'Lantern Blaze. Go on a hayride. Go sip hot apple cider and watch a parade. You might not get to do everything that Tarrytown and Sleepy Hollow have to offer in one weekend—but it will be fun trying!



Lisa Van Allen is the author of The Wishing Thread (Ballantine), a story of magic, sisterhood, knitting, and folklore in Tarrytown and Sleepy Hollow.


Photo Credits (top to bottom): © June M Sobrito | Dreamstime.com, Andy Romer Photography, © Fearpogo | Dreamstime.com, courtesy of Andrea Cirillo, © Jeffrey

5 Reasons to Visit Halifax Now

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It may be the largest city in Atlantic Canada, but history-meets-hip Halifax retains a pleasantly small-town feel while packing in plenty of diversions. Neat and lively neighborhoods are set back from the atmospheric waterfront promenade, fronting the city's scenic harbor (second only in size to Sydney, Australia's), where Haligonians (as the locals are known) are afforded a high-quality standard of living. Visitors can easily set out on foot to explore the city's compact quarters, chockfull of insightful museums, historic buildings, artsy shops, and a burgeoning food-and-brewery scene. Here are five reasons to visit Nova Scotia's capital right now, not including the fabulous fall foliage that's currently on display.
1. THE WATERFRONT
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Halifax's two-mile-long waterfront boardwalk, lining the sparkling harbor, is the city's bustling hub, beckoning visitors with cafés and restaurants; shops and galleries; entertainers and buskers; Segway, bike, and walking tours; historic ships and minor monuments; and boat tours and ferries that depart from Cable Wharf. Stretching between the Halifax Seaport (and cruise ship terminal) at its southern end, and the Casino Nova Scotia to the north, the promenade connects a slate of major attractions, including the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21, the Seaport Farmers' Market, and the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic (see more on each below). Well worth a visit, too, are the Historic Properties, where historic timber-frame and stone warehouses have been reimagined as atmospheric shops, eateries, and pubs.
2. FOOD & BREW SCENE
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Halifax embraced the farm- (and boat-!) to-table culinary culture long before it was hip. Naturally, locally sourced seafood is a big deal here, with lobster, scallop, and chowder dishes galore, but don't overlook comfort-food staples like the gyro-like, Turkish-inspired donair (pita stuffed with shaved-and-spiced beef, topped with a sweet sauce made from condensed milk); try one from a "Pizza Corner" vendor at the intersection of Blowers and Grafton Streets. Or, sample some of the city's best culinary spots via a guided outing with Local Tasting Tours, which offers several, multi-stop tour variations—try their Downtown SOMO Food Tour to sample fresh greens and gelato at the Seaport Farmers' Market, the oldest continuously operating farmers’ market in North America; scallops at the historic Halliburton House Inn; risotto and Nova Scotia wines at one of the city's oldest Italian restaurants; and more.

The city has also been embracing a craft brewing boom in the last few years (sample well-crafted, small-batch flights at Garrison Brewery Co.), while the last decade has seen a viticultural revolution in the surrounding Annapolis Valley, about an hour outside the city (try a chauffeured and guided tour out of Halifax with Grape Escapes Nova Scotia Wine Tours).
3. CANADIAN MUSEUM OF IMMIGRATION AT PIER 21



Fresh from a massive $30 million renovation and expansion that nearly doubled its original size, Canada's equivalent of Ellis Island unfolds at the country's former waterfront immigration gateway, Pier 21. Set within the historic ocean liner terminal and immigration shed where almost a million new immigrants to Canada were processed between 1928 and 1971, the museum space has been brilliantly converted to contain multimedia and hands-on displays that bring the Canadian immigration story to life, spanning arrivals from hundreds of years ago through to present day. Visitors can view immigrants' personal effects (like old trunks and archival photos); explore a replica ship cabin and dining quarters common to twentieth-century immigrants; browse an audio collection of immigrant oral histories; trace their own family's immigration in the Scotiabank Family History Centre; and much more.
4. MARITIME MUSEUM OF THE ATLANTIC



In this city by the sea, so much local history and culture is bound to the ocean. Uncover Nova Scotia's strong maritime ties at the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, fittingly situated along Halifax's waterfront. Visitors can explore regional maritime heritage via myriad shipbuilding and naval exhibits, with transporting exhibition spaces that spill over into an old ship chandlery and onto the retired hydrographic vessel, CSS Acadia, berthed out back. Two dominant displays are related to Halifax's role in the 1912 Titanic tragedy, showcasing an impressive and sobering collection ofTitanic artifacts (the city was the closest major port to the ship's sinking site) and the Halifax Explosion of 1917 (documenting the largest explosion on the planet, prior to the atomic bomb).
5. HALIFAX CITADEL



Walk off that donair with the uphill trek to Canada's most visited national historic site, the star-shaped Halifax Citadel, the fourth in a series of forts to have been built on the site, dating back to 1749. While most visitors today appreciate the sweeping photo-op views out over the harbor, this position was more practically chosen for its strategic position to defend the city. The citadel does a good job in bringing history to life, with reenactors convincingly depicting members of the historic 78th Highlanders Regiment (and their pipe band) and the 3rd Brigade Royal Artillery, allowing visitors to imagine what life was like for the soldiers who once lived and worked at this fort. (Real enthusiasts can even sign up for the ages-8-and-up "Soldier for a Day" program, to don a uniform and, for adults, to learn how to handle and fire a rifle.) Pop in to view the restored army barracks, guard room, and Army Museum, and be sure to time your visit for the noontime cannon fire salute and its related pageantry.


Photo credits (top to bottom): Courtesy of Wally Hayes (Halifax Waterfront); Courtesy of Local Tasting Tours (Scallops at Halliburton House Inn); Courtesy of Canadian Museum of Immigration (cool art installation)

Editorial: When a police chief who dances the Nae Nae can save lives

A police chief can come across as a stuffy, lecturing, out-of-touch old guy to a crowd of youngsters, some not even into their teens. Kids that young don’t know what they don’t know, and that can lead to a deadly confrontation with a police officer.
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Dallas Police Chief David Brown isn’t a behind-the-desk commander, however. So when he eagerly danced the “Nae Nae” onstage before 900 youngsters at “Let’s Talk,” a free police outreach event this week, there was an instant connection and credibility. The kids cheered and listened as he explained how they should properly respond to law enforcement. An eat-your-peas-and-carrots lecture it wasn’t.

He’s been there, as a kid growing up in Dallas, as a police officer and as a grieving father who lost a son to a tragic confrontation with law enforcement. And, like the rest of us, he watched on television as deadly, racially tinged police shootings sowed bitterness and polarized communities elsewhere.
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“I know you’ve watched the negative police shootings that have happened in other cities, the protests that have happened in other cities,” he told youngsters at the Kay Bailey Hutchison Convention Center. “What we want to do is take that negative opinion you might have and have you talk to us about it.”

Brown deserves enormous praise for this fine example of proactive community policing. Not many police chiefs are willing, or able, to put themselves out front on such a prickly issue.

Improving community-police relationships, however, has been a prime focus since Brown took the department’s top job in 2010. The department began a Dallas Police Support Coalition to bring outside voices to police policies and operations. Now he is passionately talking to youngsters about what they can do to help the police, and protect themselves and their communities.

Brown said he picked 10- to 15-year-old boys and girls for the outreach rally because that’s when he began to form his opinions about police. It was during the height of Dallas’ school integration struggle. Brown could have harbored only negative feelings about police. Instead, he said, positive role models — from teachers and relatives who were police officers — helped him see policing favorably.
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Lessons learned early about respectful interactions with police could avert deadly confrontations. Cornet Garner, 11, who lives in Oak Cliff, told a Dallas Morning News reporter he learned the importance of keeping his hands visible and out of his pockets when talking to police, and not to walk in dark alleys, which could make him seem suspicious.

“I never heard that before today, but it makes sense,” he said.

Ultimately, change must come on the streets from officers on the beat and residents themselves. Brown, however, earns praise for personally setting an important tone needed to break down barriers of mistrust.

Editorial: 50 years later, Congress is failing the Voting Rights Act

Today marks the anniversary of the moment that this country corrected a “clear and simple wrong.” It’s the day that President Lyndon Johnson signed the mighty Voting Rights Act of 1965.
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This giant step in assuring ballot-box justice for all Americans led to enormous gains in black voter registration and political representation.

But the 50th anniversary of the courageous bulldozing of Jim Crow barriers feels like a mostly hollow milestone.

Any real celebration will remain stalled until Congress fixes a flawed formula in the law that the Supreme Court ruled two years ago was outdated and, therefore, unconstitutional.
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This newspaper agreed with the court in its Shelby County vs. Holder decision: An updated standard was needed to determine which states must “pre-clear” with Washington any changes in their election practices. After all, those on the existing list wound up there based on minority voter turnout and registration from the 1964presidential election.

Rather than continuing a practice based on data more than four decades old, the court encouraged Congress to fix the formula. That’s a challenge we too have regularly sent to Washington.

Our bottom line: The need for pre-clearance persists; it couldn’t persist as written.

It’s way past time for Congress to clean and sharpen those teeth in the Voting Rights Act. Yet well-intentioned efforts continue to bounce into the gutters of the status quo.

Time and again, the conversation turns on an everything’s-fine-as-it-is misperception or into a battle between Republicans and Democrats over which party is most guilty of trying to enhance its prospects at the voting box.

That partisan paralysis leads us to again suggest that Congress consider forming a bipartisan commission, as it did to tackle military base closings, to build parameters for a new voting act formula.

Rep. Bob Goodlatte, R-Va., chairman of the House Judiciary Committee, is one of those who claims the voting act is fine the way it is. But in the last five years, 21 states have put new restrictions on the vote in place. In 15 of those states, the rules — ranging from voter registration rollbacks to early voting cutbacks to voter ID requirements — will play a first-time role in a presidential election next year.

That should rattle anyone who cares about voting participation and fairness.

You may recall that just hours after the Supreme Court’s 2013 ruling, then-Texas Attorney General Greg Abbott put into effect a strict and controversial photo ID lawthat had previously been blocked under the Voting Rights Act.

The Justice Department and others have fought back, today winning at the Fifth Circuit Court of Appeals. But none of that prevented the ID law from staying in place during the 2014 election. Until Congress acts, the only recourse is after the fact — long after winners and losers are tallied.

Capitol Hill’s backsliding contrasts dramatically with previous enthusiastic and bipartisan decisions to reauthorize the historic law four times, most recently in 2006.

Early on, the Voting Rights Act helped stamp out state and local jurisdictions’ blatant disenfranchising of voters, primarily African-Americans, through poll taxes, literacy tests, good character tests, fraud and manipulation.
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These days, discrimination is subtler, more nuanced — and sometimes tougher to prove: For instance, gerrymandering and at-large districts, reductions in voting hours and days, and the voter ID laws.

That’s why Congress must view the relentless protection of voting rights as a bipartisan issue. Remember LBJ’s charge to lawmakers in those turbulent yet hope-filled days of 1965:

“The Constitution says that no person shall be kept from voting because of his race or his color. We have all sworn an oath before God to support and to defend that Constitution.”

Will the people’s representatives in Washington step up to that challenge?

Exclusive Fodor's Deal: Villa in Chic Capri, Italy

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We know you, dear readers, love the best of the best, and there’s nothing more thrilling for a seasoned traveler than checking into a brand-new or newly renovated property. Take advantage of a great deal when Villa Le Scale in Anacapri, Italy, reopens with a new romantic-glam look in May. Bonus: the luxe hotel on the island of Capri will open a brand-new restaurant—Ristorante Decimo—just in time for its 10-year anniversary.


THE DIGS

Villa Le Scale boasts manor-style service to the point where you feel like you’re bunking in your long-lost Italian cousin’s estate. After all, Capri has long been a refuge for the rich and famous. Once the private summer retreat of an 18th Century baron (Barone Monti delle Corte), the white-walled villa with just seven rooms and suites still exudes luxury.
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Each room is packed with jaw-dropping art and antiques (from the private collection of the owner, an internationally renowned collector who lovingly restored this villa), custom-built beds and views of two acres of tiered gardens. The flowers—not to mention the cacti, goldfish-filled fountain, jasmine-laden gazebo and waterfall—will delight from every window. No two rooms are alike, but in the post-restoration iteration, each will be equipped with modern amenities like WiFi, air conditioning, an iPod docking station, plasma-screen television and surround-sound. A romantic softly-lit swimming pool completes the package and offers another way to enjoy the villa.

You’re practically guaranteed an intimate dinner at Ristorante Decimo—there will only be room for 14 diners. With the renovation comes a new seating area offering alfresco dining and a view of the sea from the comfort of your private cabana. (During inclement weather the indoor seating is just as grand: imagine an 18th Century salon with a 16th Century Turkmen fireplace and 19th Century Indian-wedding fountain.) General manager Vincent Copeland, whose father owned a restaurant in Manhattan, grew up visiting many chefs’ kitchens. His menu of Southern Italian cuisine, crafted from the region’s produce and available for three meals each day, is paired with local wines as well as the villa’s Grappa Bar (a first for Capri). Each Grappa is created on-site, using the villa’s fruit trees and herbs.
Free PornAccessible via a 45-minute boat ride from Naples, the villa is on the island of Capri and overlooks the Gulf of Naples.


THE DEAL

Villa Le Scale is offering Fodor’s readers 20 percent off the room rate—and is throwing in a bottle of Prosecco or wine upon arrival so you can properly kick back on Day One of your vacation. This deal is valid only for stays in May of 2013 and must be booked during the month of February. Normally, rooms go for between €275,00 and €650,00.
THE DETAILS

6 Hotel Packages for Baseball Lovers

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Several hotels are hitting it out of the park (we couldn't help it) this season with packages designed to get you to a baseball game in style. By adding perks like craft beer, jerseys, and coordinated transportation—not to mention perks back at the hotel like discounted parking or meals—you get a lot more than just peanuts. After the game you need only head back to your air-conditioned room and settle in for the night as you relish your team's win.


"PLAY BALL!" PACKAGE

Hotel Solamar (San Diego)
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Details: Not only do you get 20 percent off room rates at Hotel Solamar, they're tossing in perks, too: two beers at Jsix (on-site restaurant) or LOUNGEsix (rooftop lounge). As the hotel is just one block from Petco Park, home of the San Diego Padres, getting there by the opening pitch is a breeze. Beer connoisseurs already know that the hotel's new Craft Beer Hour throughout June has a new spin, offering new releases from San Diego craft breweries and the chance to mingle with Jsix chef Christian Graves (an award-winning home brewer).


"TAKE ME OUT TO THE BALLGAME" PACKAGE

Capella Washington D.C. Georgetown (Washington D.C.)
Free PornDetails: At this brand-new hotel, baseball fans are treated to a luxury experience. Before being ushered to Nationals Park in a limousine for a Washington Nationals' home game, guests are handed two official Nationals jerseys and get to tour the park. Seating in the Lexus Presidents Club means seats between the dugouts behind home plate, all-inclusive drinks (including beer and wine) and food, and views of the Nationals indoor batting cage and press-conference rooms. The $3,128 rate (for two nights) includes two breakfasts and dinner for two people at The Grill Room inside the hotel.


"SUMMERTIME BASEBALL PACKAGE"

The Parkway Hotel (St. Louis)

Details: Book this package at The Parkway Hotel and it's a classic game with all-beef hot dogs along with a tote bag stuffed with peanuts, Cracker Jacks, and baseball-themed goodies. Choose the Executive King room ($149 per night) or the Executive Double Room ($159 per night). Package is offered only on the days of St. Louis Cardinals' home games, held at Busch Stadium a four-mile drive from the hotel.


"AHEAD OF THE CURVE" PACKAGE

Hotel Marlowe (Cambridge, Mass.)

Details: Root for the Boston Red Sox at one of the country's oldest ballparks with an upscale twist: Hotel Marlowe's baseball-specific package folds in all the goodies, including four T passes (the Lechmere stop is right outside the hotel), a baseball welcome amenity, a complimentary in-room movie, and a six-pack of beer plus peanuts (Cracker Jacks and non-alcoholic beverages available for kids). Available through September 30, 2013, the package costs $369 per night. Mention rate code CURVE.


"TWINS TAKEOVER" PACKAGE

The Grand Hotel Minneapolis (Minneapolis)

Details: Target Field, the Minnesota Twins' three-year-old stadium, is a short walk from The Grand Hotel. With this package you get 15 percent off room rates, half-off valet parking, and a "Twins Bento Box" in The Six15 Room that's filled with salty snacks, chicken wings, and a malt cup (with a wooden spoon, of course). Available through September 30, 2013 on Thursday through Sunday only, the package starts at $149. Mention rate code TWINS.


"SCORE ON PARKING" PACKAGE

Hotel Monaco Seattle, Hotel Vintage Park, and Alexis Hotel (Seattle)

Details: With the "Score on Parking" package at Kimpton's three Seattle hotels, you pay for parking at the hotel based on how many runs the opposing team scored last night (for example, 2 runs=$2). You can also tap into your locavore loves with two craft beers from a Northwest brewery and a bag of Tim's Cascade potato chips (locally made). Package is offered through October 31, 2013; mention rate code SCORE.

Kristine Hansen is a freelance writer based in Milwaukee where she reports on food, wine, and travel topics around the globe for Fodors.com, along with new-hotel openings. She also writes for Wine Enthusiast, TIME, Whole Living and American Way. In 2006 she co-authored The Complete Idiot's Guide to Coffee and Tea (Alpha Books/Penguin). You can follow her on Twitter @kristineahansen orthrough her web site.